One in four tweens use retinol, study shows
Pai Skincare founder Sarah Brown is spearheading a new Stay Skin Sharp campaign with experts from the British Skin Foundation (BSF) to educate kids and parents on the dangers of using potent active ingredients on immature skin.
Via the Stay Skin Sharp Parental Skincare Guide they hope to open parents’ eyes to the long-term impacts of retinoids and AHAs on pre-teens, who are heavily influenced by social media self-care trends and viral ‘get ready with me’ videos centring around multi-step skincare routines which Brown says are unnecessary for under-12s.
The project is driven by a survey of 1,500 girls aged 9-12 which revealed that more than a quarter of UK tweens use retinols and AHAs or BHAs (such as glycolic or salicylic acid). While 81% of parents claim to be ingredient-aware, 55% of tweens don’t check labels and 41% choose products based on influencer endorsement.
Having long-observed this growing problem, and after hosting Year 6 girls at Pai’s factory for Enterprise Week, Brown felt compelled to take action. Her conversations with the girls were illuminating; while the groups attended to learn about manufacturing, their 100-plus questions were all skincare-related, ranging from ‘Where does micellar fit into my routine?’ to ‘What do you think about gua sha?’. She was struck by their intellectual curiosity and sophistication. “It wasn’t basic stuff. My jaw fell to the floor. I was absolutely horrified; equally there was a little glimmer of opportunity and optimism. I realized that these kids actually want to be educated … to know if they’re using the right things. And they will be responsible.”
The research focuses on tweens as opposed to teens because post-puberty, she explains, the skin barrier is fully formed and ‘pretty strong’, despite acne-related inflammation being common. Although this age group is influenced to some degree by parents and older siblings, more often tweens are turning to longform YouTube videos for advice on achieving clear, glowing, ‘glassy’ skin – which for 48.8% is the key motivator of using skincare. “They’re not reading labels, they don’t know how to – they’re just enticed by the brands.”
But there remains a lack of awareness that premature use of key actives meant for adults can trigger allergies later in life; 44% of tweens surveyed have already experienced redness, itching or irritation. “If kids are using retinol and AHA, which is changing the cell turnover, either the ingredients are wasted on them or they’re doing damage. If they’re getting sensitization, in the future they’ll never be able to use those ingredients. That’s a big part of why I’m doing this: I’ve lived with a skin condition for over 20 years. I know what their future could look like. It’s not nice. It really changes your life.”
“They’re not reading labels, they don’t know how to – they’re just enticed by the brands.”
Brown emphasizes that the objective is not to shame parents who may be unaware of what their children are watching and purchasing, but to ‘equip them with simple tips’ to encourage better decisions. Nor does the campaign attempt to deprive tweens of skincare products altogether; such efforts would be futile. As a formulator Brown says under-12s need nothing but SPF to protect their skin but she accepts that, influenced by peers and TikTok, many tweens desire more. “There’s no point us saying: ‘You shouldn’t be using anything’. That ship has sailed. We are dealing with a juggrenault. You just have to say: ‘Make better decisions’. They don’t need multi-step routines. Just get them using a simple moisturizer, a cleanser that’s not going to strip their skin and an SPF. Three products – that’s it.”
To effect change, the team concluded that pushing for legislative change and age restrictions on beauty packaging wouldn’t deter tweens. “They want to feel grown up; they’re going to look at ‘Appropriate for under-12s’ and say ‘No thanks’. It’s not cool.” There is equally little point lobbying retailers; according to Pai’s research tweens shopping with their friends do not heed cautions offered by shop staff. Instead, the brand says the solution is to ‘empower without preaching’.
With future plans to educate content creators, Brown is hopeful that the campaign will be received by industry as a ‘rallying cry’, spurring on action from influencers and fellow beauty brands, in particular those with a young audience. “We want the industry to run with it. We need to take action now. There’s been too much talking.”
Supporting the campaign is Dr Zainab Laftah, consultant dermatologist for the BSF, who adds: "Skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all. Educating both parents and tweens is more critical than ever. By equipping them with the right knowledge, we can help prevent unnecessary skin damage and build healthier skincare habits for the future."
Access the Stay Skin Sharp guide to tween skin here.
By Rosie Greenaway, editor